Turning Your Back On Black
Black is the colour of choice for many of us, and why not when most styles of clothing come in black? Abercrombie & Fitch banned its employees from wearing it in their stores. Anna Wintour hates it. For many, black remains a style anchor, a symbol of Gothicism and a wardrobe staple. Effortless chic, easy to find, slimming, and goes with most things! So, does black live up to its hype in the style department?
Black is fashion's marmite. People who love it can't imagine wearing anything else, and those who hate it must admit there are more appealing colours out there for them despite black's effortlessness.
So why does this straight forward colour look fabulous on some of us and not on others?
Without getting too scientific and taking you down the Colour Analysis route too much, in short, black is a COOL colour. It is a CLEAR shade and is DEEP in tone. Therefore, it looks the best on people whose eyes, skin and hair colour also share those characteristics of being Cool, Clear and Deep.
When I say that black is a cool colour, I mean that its undertone is cool. The opposite to cool is warm. Black looks best on people with cool characteristics as it is more visually balanced. Harmonious with the human if you like.
Black is a ‘clear’ colour because it is a highly saturated, so it looks best on people with a medium to high intensity or a high contrast level to their appearance. They can have a sharp and striking appearance. Think Claudia Winkleman or Megan Fox. Or perhaps someone with jewel-like eyes paired with cool-toned hair like Charlize Theron.
Here, we're talking about clarity, and the opposite of ‘clear’ is ‘soft’. The starkness of black can overwhelm people with ‘soft’ characteristics. I am this person. I have highlighted blonde hair and green eyes, so black is too intense for me. In sit in the same camp as Kylie Minogue and Sarah Jessica Parker so I am happy. I stay away from black mostly and opt for plum, charcoal grey and dark neutrals.
Black being called ‘deep’ refers to its depth. The opposite to black being white and ‘light’. So black is a strong colour and works well with people who have strong characteristics such as brown eyes and darker hair. Think Keira Knightley or Meghan, The Duchess of Sussex.
This doesn’t mean if you have cool, light hair then black isn’t for you. You just made need to ‘break up your black’ to create balance. See the ‘cool’ hair toned lady below who mainly chooses grey with black accents.
If you are still baffled by the above, try wearing black near your face to see if it brings your natural characteristics to life or if it makes you feel flat. You may be able to find your answer with a simple test with a piece of black fabric. The truth is that many of us cannot wear black too close to our faces. Christian Dior famously quoted “You can wear black at any time. You can wear it at any age. You may wear it for almost any occasion”. Sorry, Dior, but I disagree.
So, if black isn’t your BFF then here are some tips to start your colour crusade. Total black elimination straight away is drastic and you may struggle for basics so go one step at a time.
1.Stop buying black
Thanks, Sherlock! You may think it's easy, but it might be harder than you think! Your closet probably already has enough of it, so stop buying it. Try going to a shop and see what you find as a result of not being able to buy black.
2. Wear black as far away from your face as possible
If it’s a little black dress which still has a place in your wardrobe, then choose a style which has a low neckline so that there is a good amount of skin between your jaw line and the neckline of the dress. Think a low V or a scoop style which would enable you to choose a necklace with gemstones in your better colours to take the focus away from the black. Alternatively, keep back to the bottom half and focus on colours from your palette close to your face.
3. Diffuse black with accessories
Where does the eye go first when? Draw the viewers eye away from the black clothing towards an accessory you are wearing which is with your colour palette. Anyone who knows me, will affirm that I am big fan of a statement necklace in colours which suit my complexion. Scarves and belts are also a fabulous way to wear with any black clothing and people will notice to the scarf complimenting your skin tone and the black clothing will fade into the background.
4. Think fabrics
If black isn’t your most flattering shade, then there is a huge difference with how black will look on you in a black satin than a sheer black tuille covered in sequins. The same can be said for intense black cashmere jumper and a woollen black jumper with another colour weaved into the knit. The tuille and the wool will be softer options for those who don’t look their best in a heavy black.
5. Seek out new neutrals
A colour analysis a helpful when you are looking for your black replacement otherwise you will find our self-buying a black winter coat when autumn visits. If you don’t have a Colour Analysis then visit shops and hold neutrals such a Navy, Light Navy, Olive, Charcoal Grey, Plum and Pewter against your face a see if the garment suits your skin, eyes and skin tone.
6. Offset your black with other colours
I think we all so used to the combination of black and white that we have been a little blindsided to options such as dark plum and a very pale shell pink or a minky brown with an ivory and mint. The basic navy and white combination aren’t reserved just nautical pursuits!
7. Best foot forward
Start thinking about adding different colours to your collection if black isn't your best friend. There will always be a place for a black stiletto, it's just that other colours of shoes can help you out of the black hole fast and stylishly. Summer is here, so think coloured suede espadrilles or canvas pumps.
8. Relax black
Forget Chanel and save a crisp black outfit exclusively for a funeral. If black is a colour which is in your colour palette, but you know that it only works when combined with softer neutrals. Seek out good basics in shades like ivory, a light grey, a shell pink or a light mint. These quieter neutrals add a subtle and soft sophistication to the weight of black.
9. The slender game
Black can have a slimming illusion, yes. But so can other dark shades such a navy, charcoal and pewter. Any dark colour will have a more slimming effect than a lighter one, it just doesn’t need to be black. The lady below is using charcoal and a patterned jacket break up black and go with her softer complexion.
So, to end the battle with black. If you love black clothing, feel fabulous wearing it, then go for it. Forget what I say as your inner confidence will radiate out and knock any shadows sideways. If however, you feel like black may not be the best choice for you then read some of the tips above and if you are really stuck. I am only a Colour Analysis appointment away!