Denim up and elevate your style game
Sometimes searching for the perfect pair of jeans, can feel like looking for a needle in a haystack and then throw all these new styles into the mix and then the haystack can become a haybarn!
I started writing this blog hoping to keep it short and concise. (So sorry, i could have written a book). There is so much to say! I hope to give you some tips which will make the shopping process a lot easier, and I will show you some examples of the styles on the high street and explain which styles suit which body shapes. So here goes!
First of all…
Preparation and patience are the keys to finding the perfect pair of jeans. So measure, measure, and measure again. No matter how tempting it may be, guesstimating your size can lead to problems down the road. Take out your tape measure and follow these steps (measure against an existing pair if you're happy with the sizing or ask someone else to assist you).
1 . Understand the rise
Your rise is the distance of the middle of the crotch seam (that's between your legs) to the top of the where your waist narrows lies. It varies in inches, but the average rise measurement is between 7 and 12.
2. The waist
The waist measurement is taken from the smallest part of your waist, under your ribcage, or where you bend (bending to the side).
3 - In-seam measurements
Put on a pair of shoes that you will likely wear with the jeans you want to buy and decide how long you’d like them to be, then take a measurement from the crotch seam to the bottom of the hem. You would obviously have a longer inseam with flares teamed with sky high platforms than you would with skinny ankle grazers and flats.
4 - Hips
Stand with your feet together take the tape measure around your bottom and measure the fullest part of your hips at the top of your legs, approx 9 inches lower than your waistline.
So now you have your measurements! Here are just a few more bits of knowledge I would like you to have before you get purchasing.
5 - Bum and Thighs
A good pair of jeans can transform your bum into something bigger or smaller, smoother or perkier based on the quality of the construction. The seat and waist of your jeans should feel sculpting while the thigh should have enough room to move. Without comfort, you won't wear them. Before you rip off the tags, rest (buying jeans can be like a workout) sit in a chair and bend your legs to ensure that they are comfortable. Check the inside and outside seams. If they pull or twist either toward the front or back, your jeans are too tight.
6 - Crotch
Camel-toe (sorry.. couldn’t find a better word) jeans with excessive crotch sagging are not attractive. It's more likely that you'll tackle the former than the latter, unless you're wearing ill-fitting boyfriend jeans or loose vintage cuts. Jeans that feel like they're invading your nether region are probably not cut right for your body. You should be able to feel the fabric by squatting and sitting in a low chair, and you should also be able to inspect the seat seam; it should lay straight down your bum. A tight pair of jeans will pull to one side.
7 - Waist
There is no doubt that this is one of the most important areas to focus on. The waistband should lay flat against your skin for the most comfortable and flattering fit. Lycra or spandex jeans tend to stretch out a bit over time, but it's best to buy a pair that fits properly from the beginning and be open to alterations if your size changes or your body shape changes.
Waistbands should fit snugly enough to eliminate the need for belts, but not too tight to feel constricting. Raw denim allows maybe two fingers to fit into the waistband, while stretchy styles allow maybe four.
8 - Fabric
It's all about the fabric! Cotton denim jeans, for example, will fit and wear out differently than jeans or jeggings with Lycra or spandex. For loose, vintage styles, raw denim works well, but it has virtually no stretch, so if it fits perfectly everywhere but has a too-small waistband, it will pinch. Denim that is 100 percent rigid has no stretch, so it will fit tighter where you're curvier and looser where you're less curvy. Before it feels like a perfect fit, it takes some time to mould to your body.
Almost every modern denim style has some stretch. With extra stretch, you can achieve a look that fits perfectly, moves with you, and lifts your bum or smooths your hips.
Styles
With so many styles to choose from, it’s no wonder we all get confused. Below is a picture of some of the most common along with their names. Before you start looking. i am going to answer a quick question I often get.
What is the difference between boyfriend and girlfriend styles? Answer: Typically, Boyfriend jeans widen at the hips and stay loose to the ground creating a baggy straightened fit. Mom jeans are high-waisted, opening up at the hips and then tightening slightly at the thighs, creating a slim cut until the ankle. So they tend to suit different body shapes. Pleated and Pegged in this diagram could also be called ‘Paperbag’
Before you get going picking your perfect pair, a quick reminder of the body shapes so that you can check that your dream jean is going to suit your shape.
Neat Hourglass
Yes
High-rise jeans in any style that will fit your waist perfectly
Slim or straight-cut jeans
Jeans with bootcuts or flares that aren't wider than your shoulder. So maybe a gentle flare.
Skinny jeans as long as they are not too tight on your thighs. Distressed in the picture above are the same.
Pleated, pegged or paper bag styles which allow comfort on the hips and show off the waist
Mom jeans IF the waist doesn’t sit too low and adds bulk to the thighs
No
Too curvy styles (meant for full hourglass) are designed for rounder hips and smaller waists
Thigh and hip-expansion jeans with too much stretch. They will get baggy.
Jeans with a boyfriend fit as they sit too low at the waist
The picture below shows jeans which would work for a neat hourglass shape. Photo@asos. These jeans are from Asos and are the Topshop Jamie flare jeans in black. Visit www.asos.com. They are priced between £36.00 and £46.00.
Full hourglass
Yes
Wide legs
Loose fittings
Tapered / Paper bag trousers
Mid or high rise to elongate legs
Slim
Bootcut
Flared with stretch and a contoured waist band
Skinny styles with stretch
No
Avoid low rise as they tend to make the hips look wider and the legs shorter
Straight cuts and boxy styles which hide the waist
The picture below shows jeans which would work for a Full hourglass shape. Jeans are the slim fit, MOM Jeans with a high rise and can be purchased from www.lovall.com - £38.00
Photo credit @lovall
Apple
Yes
Mid-rise jeans ideally with a tummy control system or an elasticized waist
Skinny and slim jeans. They put a focus on your legs
Cropped flares and skinny bootcuts with a mid or high rise
You'll get a more defined waist and hips with paper bag waists and pleats
No
Low-rise jeans to avoid a muffin-top effect
Boyfriend jeans as the waist sits too low
Any details that will draw attention to your midsection
Boyfriend jeans as the waist sits too low
The picture below shows jeans which would work for an Apple Shape. These jeans are the Spanx Skinny Jeans in Midnight and can be snapped up from John Lewis online £112.00
Photos @spanx
Pear
Yes
Skinny jeans made for a ‘Curvy Fit’ and a high rise
Minimal detail on back of jeans
Wide leg Jeans
Skinny flares with lots of stretch
Loose fit
Boot cut
Paper bag styles (pleated / pegged)
Mom jeans
No
Skinny jeans with a loose rise and no stretch
Slim fit
Boyfriend jeans
Straight fit
Flares with a very wide fare. It will be hard to balance out the top half of the body.
The picture below shows jeans which would work for an Pear Shape. The Curvey Way-High Skinny Jean are £84 from www.everlane.com. They come in three colours ways.
Photo @everlane
Inverted Triangle
Yes
Wide leg or flared styles that balance the lower half of your body with your slightly broader shoulders
Straight leg
Boyfriend styles
Wide leg crop
Boot cut
Mom styles
No
Skinny jeans will throw off your proportions so can only be worn if they are lighter than your top half combined with very chunky footwear
Slim leg styles. Same reason as above
The picture below shows jeans which would work for an Inverted Triangle Shape. These High Rise Wide Leg Jeans can be purchased from www.boden.co.uk for £90.00
Photo credit @boden
Lean Column
To be honest most jeans look good on a Lean Column body shape. Think Kate Moss…. Its up to personal preference, you can embrace your lean frame with tight and straight lines or go for styles which add curves and volume. If you are adding volume to the bottom half then you need to add volume to the upper body to keep the visual balance.
Yes
Skinny jeans with a mid to high rise will create more definition at the waist
Low rise styles will also work
Skinny flares
Slim boyfriend styles with turn ups
Straight cut wide leg
Straight cut slim Bootcut
Tapered, Paper bag and Pleated because the tie or nipped in waist creates curves
No
Avoid buying jeans for a curvy figure. You are looking for a straighter cut
Mom jeans (too much material round the bum area)
Very wide flares
The picture below shows jeans which would work for a Lean Column shape. To buy these Mid Blue Slim Leg Mom Jeans for £55.00, visit www.sosandar.com
Photo credit @sosandar
Rectangular body shape
Yes
Bootcut and straight leg - they follow the straight lines of the body
Flares with a mild flare - add interest to the bottom half adding too much bulk
Skinny or slim fit with stretch - Can add a little shape with a stretchy style.
Boyfriend styles - Perfect for hips
Paper bag styles - good for creating a waist
High or mid rise - Smooths out the midsection (torso)
No
Extreme flares (not bell)
Wide legs as they could make you look wider
Mom styles as they will have too material around your bum
Low rise as they may create a muffin top
The picture below shows jeans which would work for a Lean Column shape. To buy these Agnes Straight jeans visit www.hush.com for £79.00. They come in two colours and two lengths.
Photo credit@hush
TROUBLE-SHOOTING COMMON FIT ISSUES
I recommend figuring out why you don't like wearing your current jeans to begin the process of trial and error. Here are a few problems my clients have mentioned with their jeans in the past.
A muffin top – the result of an overly tight or undersized waistband on your jeans
Jeans that fit correctly don't smile - In other words, I'm talking about the horizontal dragline that forms between the crotch area of your jeans and your hips. Whenever there isn't enough room in the hip area, the rise will resemble a full smile. The line across the top of the jeans should only slightly bend.
The back of your jeans digs into your crotch or thighs - your rise is too short. The waistband has to come all the way up to your natural waist on the backside.
The jeans gape at the back – For those blessed with a peachy bum, this is can be a downside. With some styles. Jeans which fit the hips but often not at waist. Look for brands which specifically design curvy styles. Such Good America, Everlane and Next.
The jeans crease at the back. A small number of creases (especially for skinny jeans) is normal and it’s due to the spandex which will expand and allow you to bend and sit while wearing them. However, when the creases are more significantly present it might point to a thigh width issue. In this case, you will see small straight creases at the back of your leg that dig into your thighs. You might want to try a style with a wider leg that allows more room.
A seat width issue. These types of creases are concave, much bigger, and looser. It means there is an excess of material, and you need to go for a smaller size or a slimmer cut.
Do they fit my waist? Try to fit two fingers down the back of the waist. If you can easily fit more than that, they are too loose, less than that, too tight. The waist needs to feel comfortable, so they aren’t sliding down and also aren’t cutting into you whether you’re standing up or sitting down.
I have a flat bum, what will work? Look for a snug-fit style like skinny or slim jeans that will lift your bum. Extract details such as contrast stitching, embroidery and back pockets will give the illusion of a look rounder and perkier bum.
Now you have the know how and are ready to hit the high street. Here are some top tips!
Set a budget - Once you have your measurements in hand, it’s time to think about what is affordable for you. You can find good quality jeans for a reasonable price, though most likely it will mean giving up details like gold stitching or a button-fly. You’ll have to weigh up your priorities and what feels comfortable within your budget. Here you can find more about the cost.
Don’t be tempted to rush - Jeans are one of the most hardworking wardrobe staples there is, so picking the right pair should be approached with patience. Don’t settle for “good for now” jeans. With such a wide variety of brands and styles available, there is no reason to compromise for ‘almost-right’ fitting jeans only to wear them in everyday life and realize that something’s wrong. At which point, you’ll find yourself right back in the dressing room where you started.
For ankle-length jeans, the hem should be positioned just above or right on your ankle bone. Skinny jeans should offer a clean ankle-length look, while straight jeans should cover the top of your feet.
Aftercare is key - Always wash denim inside out and on nothing more than 30 degrees and never tumble dry.
I am a great advocate of shopping on the high street and trying things on but I do get that for some people online shopping is the only option.
Online Shopping
A size guide can be helpful when buying online, but it can be daunting at first. You should be able to select a pair of jeans to try in the comfort of your own living room if you have your measurements, and you can try them on as many times as you want!
The devil is in the detail - Typical size guides are grid-based and feature various metrics. Usually, the waist size corresponds with a standard women's dress size (UK, EU, US).
Read the product description - It is important to read the product description carefully so that you can determine how the jeans will fit (slim, baggy, straight), whether they contain elastane and therefore promise stretch, the weight of the denim, and how the denim is treated. Zoom in on the pictures!
Look into the sizing - It is impossible to create a solid blueprint for jeans sizing since size guides vary between retailers. In order to avoid purchasing a pair that is wildly off the mark, look out for several red flags. Customers can tell you if something runs small or large in size from their reviews and product descriptions on websites, and a quick Google search can help, too.
Working with me
For many people, understanding and wearing their most flattering pair of jeans can make a big difference to their self confidence. If you like to understand more about your body shape and what styles of other clothes would suit you, then head to the Shape and Style section on my website.
To make an appointment with me, head to the ‘Work with me’ section on my website.